How to sew men's trousers?

Agree, it will be great if your son, brother, husband or father receives wonderful trousers, sewn with your hands with love. Such trousers will ideally sit on the figure, meet all the requirements, as you can choose the fabric and other details to your liking. It remains only to learn how to sew men's trousers so that they have a neat and elegant look. This is what will be discussed in the article. I want to immediately note that, unlike women’s, men's trousers have a number of exceptional features. Preservation of classic trousers for a long time of a beautiful and neat appearance is associated with these particular features of tailoring. Pants for men should be durable and, at the same time, elegant, so it is so important to pay special attention to details when sewing.

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Sewing men's trousers with your own hands - the order of work

Sewing any clothes begins with the construction of the drawing (pattern). You can cut trousers yourself or use ready-made patterns.

Important! Using the finished pattern, be sure to check the coincidence of the drawing with the control lines of the waist, bottom, knee, hip and step.

In addition to constructing patterns, the technology of tailoring men's trousers involves the following additional operations:

• Lining - for the classic model.
• Arrows design.
• Side pocket processing.
• Processing of the upper cut with a sewn-in belt on the corsage tape.
• Processing codpiece.
• Processing the bottom of the trousers.

Let us dwell in detail on each of the above sewing procedures.

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Rules for cutting trousers taking into account the model, size and pattern of the fabric

Initially, in order to sew men's trousers, it is necessary to correctly calculate the fabric. Here are the following recommendations:

• Standard men's trousers can be cut out from 120-130 cm of fabric 150 cm wide. Such a consumption of fabric can be considered the norm for small sizes (up to 44 inclusive).
• For trousers with a volume of more than 115 cm, the material consumption increases to 1.5-2 m.
• For a cut of loose-fitting trousers, the tissue consumption rate can double, and then 2.5-2.6 m of tissue will be required.

Important! To accurately calculate the required amount of fabric, mark the width of the fabric 150 cm on the floor and lay out the patterns. It is only important to fit the patterns in width, taking into account sections of the fabric edge and allowances. Do not forget about the allowances along the waist (1.5-2 cm) and the bottom (4-6 cm). All other parts of the product will be placed in the resulting lunges.

A few words about a free cut

Loose trousers differ from other models in that no matter how you try to fit the details of the pattern 1.5 m long, nothing will work. Therefore, we recommend that you immediately buy two lengths, taking into account all the allowances, and then you can freely arrange both parts of the product pattern on one side (along the edge) at once. To cut the belt and other details, use the remaining, folded in half, a large lunge.

Making a layout on the fabric

To properly cut the fabric into trousers, use the following tips:

• Lay out the patterns on the fabric from the wrong side.
• To build a pattern, you must take the following measurements:
  1. Half Waist.
  2. Half hips.
  3. Half knee circumference.
  4. Seat height.
  5. The length of the trousers to the knee.
  6. The length of the pants on the side.

Important! By these standards, a drawing of the pattern of the front and rear halves of the trousers is being built. If you use ready-made patterns, then check the main lines according to the taken measurements, change or upgrade the drawing to fit your model.

• Patterns on the fabric, apply with chalk or a thin bar of soap. You can use a pencil on light fabrics, but the lines should be thin and almost invisible.
• Before applying the pattern, fold the fabric in half with the front side inward, and pin the edge with pins so that the fabric does not move during work (lining and cutting). If the fabric pattern is in a cage or strip, then combine it also along the edges (transverse). Chop the edge with pins.
• On fabrics with a single-sided pattern or pile fabrics with fleece or with an asymmetric cell, place the patterns in one direction.
• Pile pile fabrics so that the pile on the product lay from top to bottom.
• Calculate the size of the allowances for the seams, depending on the type of material and the method of processing sections. On loose fabrics, increase seam allowances by 0.5-1 cm. Cut off excess material when sewing.
• Before proceeding directly to the cutting, treat the fabric with steam from the wrong side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the type of fabric, since shrinkage is different for each material.
• Lay out the details of both halves of the trousers so that the shared thread runs along the line of the iron. To do this, measure the distance from the edge of the fabric to the line of the iron in several places of the pattern. Combine these points with the chalk line. Thus, you transfer the line of ironing to the fabric.
• After the cutting is completed, outline all control lines with cushioning stitches, and press the ironing line.
• At the final stage of cutting the product, sweep and grind the tucks at the rear half and at the waist. After that, perform wet heat treatment and proceed directly to sewing trousers.

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Trouser Lining Cutting

One of the main differences between the classic trouser model is the presence of a lining on the front halves. The lining protects the product from “elongated knees” while working at the table. A lining is cut out in the shape of the front parts of the trousers. The length of the lining should be just below the knee.

After cutting out the lining, proceed to join the front and rear parts of the trousers:

1. Connect the lining to the front and rear halves at the same time.
2. Work on the overlock bottom sections of the lining.
3. Pull off the trousers and prepare for the first fitting, on which determine the width and length of the trousers, the height of the trousers at the waist level, the line of entry into the side pocket, and eliminate the landing defects.

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The design of the arrows on the trousers

Make all the changes after the first fitting and tack the trousers: grind the seams and iron them (except for the middle seam).

To draw arrows on trousers, proceed as follows:

1. Fold each leg apart so that the step seam aligns with the side.
2. Pin the fabric.
3. Iron with an iron (through a piece of cotton cloth) centered to get straight arrows.

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Side pocket processing

Men like to store a variety of things in their pockets - keys, phone, money, credit cards, so the pockets should be strong enough and moderately deep. The fabric for the burlap pocket should be dense. Usually a dense twill is chosen for this purpose to match the color of the trousers (or contrasting shades, depending on the model).

To draw the side pockets, you must perform the following steps:

1. To prepare burlap sacks for pockets.
2. Treat the lower parts of the burlap with a clearance.
3. Handle the top of the burlap.

We will tell about all the details of processing pockets below:

• Sacking consists of two parts on one pocket - the lower and upper. Burlap depth is equal to the length of the brush + additional margin for freedom of movement of the brush.In order to cut out the details of burlap, put your hand on paper (cloth) and circle around the contour. Depending on the wishes, a pocket can be made of any shape and size.
• Parts located in mirror image on one pocket should be two.

Important! When cutting parts, do not forget to add allowances along the bottom of the burlap (1-1.5 cm).

To process the bottom of the burlap with a clearance, proceed as follows:

1. Cut a gap along the warp thread from the same fabric that the pants are sewn. The clearance should not be too small, but not too large so that when processing the pocket the burlap itself was not visible. One side of the gap should be framed by a smooth line that repeats the angle on the trousers in the area of ​​the location of the pocket.
2. Seam off the rounded section of the clearance.
3. Seal the clearance on the burlap part.

The second burlap part must be connected to the trousers along the side and top seam, previously supporting the side seam from above. Proceed as follows:

1. Align the corner of the burlap with the upper corner of the trousers along the side seam and connect along the intended line of entry into the pocket.
2. Cut the resulting allowance on the burlap to 1-1.5 cm.
3. Bend the burlap and sew on it the upper corner of the leg. The burlap allowance should be inside.
4. Fold the burlap inside the leggun exactly along the line of entry into the pocket.
5. Lock the pocket entrance with the iron.
6. Fasten the line of entry into the pocket on the front side with a finishing stitch (0.5 cm from the fold).
7. Connect the upper and lower parts of the burlap with machine stitch, combining all sections.
8. Gently shape the corner of the burlap. Process the slices on the overlock.
9. Join the side seams with the burlap.
10. After processing the pockets, connect the trousers to the middle seam and sew them with a double stitch for durability.

Important! To keep the entrance to the pocket firmly, place transverse machine clips on the pocket - near the side seam and the upper cut of the trousers.

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Processing codpiece

The fastener in men's trousers is processed in the same way as in regular ones, one feature is the codpiece. Conventional closure processing involves a codpiece made from the same fabric as the pants. In the classic version, this part consists of two parts, made in this way:

• 1 part is cut out from the main material (trouser) in one layer without bending. The edge of the codpiece must be swept away.
• 2 part of the part is cut out of the lining fabric in two layers and 15-18 cm longer. At the end, the codpiece should be slightly narrowed.

To sew men's pants with the correct fit, connect both parts of the part in a straight line. The processing of both parts is the same as in regular trousers. The exception is only the elongated part of the codpiece, since it needs to surround the middle seam, fixing it in several places with machine rivets.

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Processing the upper cut of the trousers

The peculiarity of belt sharpening on a male product is that one end of the part should be longer. This part of the belt is grinded and tuned to the belt. Then a fastener is sewn onto this part of the belt or a loop is swept out. The second end of the belt is processed as usual.

Stitch the belt as follows:

1. To prevent the corsage tape from shrinking, iron it.
2. Harness belt loops.
3. Connect the belt to the body belt.
4. Connect the belt to the trousers. Fold the folds in front along the arrows. Belt loops too.
5. Fasten the belt with the finishing stitch on the front side (seam to seam), grabbing the corsage tape.
6. Sew the free end of loops to the belt with machine rivets.

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Processing the bottom of the trousers

On the bottom of the pants wear out a lot. To prevent this problem, sew trouser braid over the back halves of the product at a distance of the width of the allowance (3.5-4 cm).

The process of processing the bottom of the product is as follows:

1. Pretreat the braid with an iron to prevent shrinkage.
2. Sew trouser tape on both sides at the distance of the allowance width with two machine lines.
3. Process the bottom of the trousers on the overlock.
4. Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side and secure with pins.
5. Hem the hem of the leg with hidden stitches.

Important! At the end of the work, perform wet-heat treatment of the product.

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Stock footage

Pants of their own tailoring are ready, and now you can please a loved one with a product created with love. Believe me, your chosen one will appreciate your care and efforts. Good luck and success!